Notes From A Small Island II

09Jul09

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The big downside of wild camping for me is lack of a decent night’s sleep. And it’s bright at 5am. A coffee was brewed to stave off tiredness and some alfresco ablutions attended to. The morning was misty grey and ominous clouds were tumbling towards camp so little time was wasted packing up and heading back down to the car to head for Traigh Na Beirigh, the great bay of a beach just past Cnip (pronounced Kneep but I’ve pronounced it with a hard C and a Nip since I was a kid).

There’s a great house in Breanish I always stop and peer into call Talla Choinneachaidh and again there was noone home. Who lives there and why aren’t they there the whole damn time enjoying it? After that there were detours to Mangersta and Carnish before zipping past the Abhainn Dearg distillery by mistake with a vow to return before heading north. Emerging from Glen Valtos to Miavaig gives you a choice of routes to Reef and a clockwise approach was chosen taking in Cliff, Valtos and (excuse English / Gaelic interchanging) Cnip. I love Cnip. Sometimes it feels like Hobbiton. The golfball greenhouse is still there and cresting the hill to the big beach reveal is always awesome. Changed days at the campsite now. Once upon a time there was a single Portakabin pair of loos and a tap. Now there’s toilets, showers, wash up rooms and electricity. The site was busy so after parking and loading up the happier and anti-social option of walking a mile down the beach to a favourite spot was easily taken.

The next couple of days were pretty lazy, spent reading, climbing some hills (Niosa Mhor) and cooking out over a small fire. The midge and cleg factor put paid to any fishing attempts too. Spectacular sunsets were the order of the evening, one of which burst through a grey clouded horizon like an atom bomb. No joke, without news for a few days it looked like New York had been hit. Cormorants ducked and dived for heir dinners nearby and a pair of Terns abused the schools of Sandeels that skittered across the shallows. A small motor boat with a Dad and two kids gave up the ghost a few dozen yards from shore one evening but luckily a passing kayak group passed by to lend a hand. Every night around midnight another small boat chugged along, probably lifting creels for crab or lobsters just off the rocks.

A few folk made the long walk and back to “my” end of the sands but generally it was quiet and peaceful with only a few beasties to bother with and by heading in their direction I could use the facilities and for a pound coin, a shower which was bliss if cheating somewhat. After a couple of nights it was pack up and out time. Heading for the distillery and Uig Community shop proved a waste of time as both were empty and closed. Driving back towards Miavig saw a lot of local drivers in church dress and sure enough a local funeral was that day and the community had obviously downed tools for the day to turn out to pay their respects.

Next stop was north to Ness.

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Notes From A Small Island I

08Jul09

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Just a few notes on my trip back home as I’ve hee haw to write about city life at the moment other than it sucks. Not exactly a Martin Martin bit of writing this but if it passes the time of day then read on…

The Monday drive from Glasgow to Ullapool was a breeze. Apart from the constant single to double carriageway changing. It’s a pain in the arse and as per usual involved long, slow periods stuck behind caravans and trucks followed by frantic, foot to the floor overtaking whenever the chance arose. Once past Tore it really starts to feel like you’re heading home though, it’s a great, winding road that’s fun to drive and the scenery is grand. The sun was out and with the sky-roof wide open the X-Trail belted along nicely all the way to the ferry terminal.

The Minch crossing was another Caribbean cruise, just like last time. Flat calm, sun blazing and everyone in good form. As soon as we were out of Loch Broom the sweet, sweet smell of the Calmac curry drifted luringly. I was like a kid in a Bisto ad. How do they make it so good? A Minke was spotted to Starboard and everyone ran to view it’s brief appearance. A pod of Common dolphins then appeared to port so everyone whooped and ran to the otherside. At this point most passengers were on the outside decks and pointing at waves that could be wildlife. And so it went on until pretty soon Arnish was in view and beams cracked through a few clouds in an oddly Life Of Brian fashion, shining down on Stornoway. Nice to be back.

The evening was spent having a cold beer or two at the folks and kicking a ball about the croft with Mac the Collie as his scrappy feline sidekick meandered up to say hello. It was so late and still so bright.

The following morning brought a great drive as far west as could be got. Sometimes there is no more enjoyable left turn in this world than the one at Garynahine. The road to Uig keeps running until it doesn’t, just past Mealista and miraculously ne’er a campervan was to be seen. Parking up in the shadow of the Marylin Griomaval and changing from civvies into walking kit, a pack was thrown on the back and a rough bearing for the destination higher in the hills taken.

Uladail seemed further away than last time, or maybe the pack was just heavier. Certainly felt that way when I went knee deep into a sneaky bit of bog. The sun started to break through and picking a spot with a good view the Tadpole 23 was pitched and a coffee brewed. By the time things were settled in, the sky was clear and though a SE breeze kept the sweat down unfortunately it lulled the legs into unfeeling the sunburn while I sat on my ass taking in the view. While admiring the pink / white boundry marks on my sore calves a dinner of rehydrated hotpot was cooked, Jetboiled water coming from a nearby, peat black stream, and libation came in mugfuls from a bag of red wine. Crap food and drink never tasted so good.

The sky was so clear that while watching a boat take a two hour journey over the horizon I spied Boreray and Armin miles yonder. Donald MacDonald’s Tales and Traditions of the Lews provided the reading material and although it’s more about Uigeachs than anyone else, given where I was sucking up the peace and quiet that was more than just fine by me.

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See Ya!

28Jun09

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Island bound at 11am tomorrow morning.

See ya in a week.

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More From The “Garden”

28Jun09

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Bit laughable calling it a garden but heck, things are growing!

I’ve got more salad than I know what to do with. The rocket, mizuna and mustard leaves are growing thick and fast and no matter how much I cut and use, there seems to be loads more a few days later. The lettuces (3 types) are the same, just cut and they come back. Brilliant.

And the spinach, for so long looking tired and weedy has just thrived recently producing big heavy leaves as well as much smaller baby ones. I love spinach and it’s been a treat to just pick leaves and chew ‘em Popeye style.

Some of the plants have bolted / flowered but they look nice, still taste good and today I saw a few bumble bees for the first time getting their fill which was cool.

The herbs are all doing fine if not as dramatic as the veg. I’ve used the thyme on a few tarts and it’s been great just to grab handfuls of basil every second day without having to hunt the supermarkets. I think the other stuff will take a while to come on but I look forward to sage, mint, marjoram etc when they are fully grown.

Finally the beetroot and french dwarf beans have a bit to go and I think they’ll be the most satisfying. I wish I’d had a crack at tomatoes and maybe courgettes but there’s always next year. More pics on Flickr if you fancy —>

Just wish I had a proper garden.

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Camping Clothing

25Jun09

It was pointed out that in a previous equipment rundown for my week on-island I didn’t appear to be wearing any clothes.

Luckily for locals, I will be.

Basically for camping and fishing at this time of year I’d wear a simple layered system of synthetic North Face gear…

NF Meridian Cargo shorts: Longish n loose, hardwearing, quick drying, packs up in a tiny ball.

NF Banff tee: Wicking, quick drying, lightweight polyester tee shirt with +30 UPF

NF Summit series long sleeved tee: Light, warm, thermal layer made from polypropylene.

NF Chesterton crew fleece: Basic long sleeved fleece pullover

NF Geosphere Jacket: Rainproof, breathable, well-vented, light shell with hood.

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Midge

23Jun09

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The islands of the Outer Hebrides will now be well into Midge Season.

Culicoides Impunctatus is the dreaded Highland Midge a member of the two-winged fly family, sharing some features in common with their relatives, the mosquitoes. However, Highland midges are very small, with a wingspan of about 1.4 mm. They have characteristic dark flecks on the wings. It is a ill known fact, probably due to an extensive cover up by Comhairle Nan Eilean and the island’s tourist board that the Hebridean Midge, Culicoides Speachatus is the worst of all midges, attacking in clouds of millions and often leaving nothing but the white bones of their victim behind.

These midges are most prolific during the months of June, July, August and sometimes September and are most active at dawn and dusk. Biting begins at about 5 am, peaks at 7 am and falls to lower levels after 9 am. Peak activity in the evening can be anytime between 6 pm and 11 pm. The wee buggers cluster near water and peat bogs and shrubs, away from direct sunlight and strong wind. They enjoy calm, damp, overcast days – even light rain. Shaded areas are preferred, such as the edges of forests and woods which shield them from wind and sunlight. Midge activity has been shown to increase in dim light but is suppressed by bright light.

For those visiting the Lewis for the first time, they may not experience this reaction to midge bites straight away. This is because it may take a few days for the human’s immune system to be triggered. Amongst the local population, many people develop less severe reactions to the bites. This is possibly because after years of being bitten annually, their immune systems become slower to respond. Whateffer, you will be bitten if you venture into their territory.

I’ve got my DEET, my hood and my cigars prepared but I know I don’t stand a chance, every year it’s the same and I can feel myself itching already

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Top Trumps #6: John MacLeod

23Jun09

John MacLeod was born in Lochaber in 1966. After graduating from Edinburgh University, he began his career at BBC Highland in Inverness and quickly established himself as a freelance writer. He won Scottish Journalist of the Year in 1991 and contributed regularly to The Scotsman and The Herald. He is presently a columnist with the Scottish Daily Mail and is the author of several books.

In addition to playing a brief role with Western Isles Health Board, he was famously dismissed from his Sunday Herald column for attributing the Soham deaths of Holly Wells and Jessica Chapman to a lack of Sabbath observance writing:

Had the parents of Holly Wells and Jessica Chapman kept the Lord’s Day, their daughters would still be alive.

They would have spent the day at rest or the private and public worship of God, and not been wandering the countryside, prey for whatever evil finally befell them.

He was also no slouch when it came to homophobic comments either having written that gays are ”unnatural, dangerous” and “evil,” and linking homosexuality to “promiscuity, instability, neurosis, substance abuse, suicide, untold depths of degradation, misery and self-loathing.” adding that gays are ”simply not equipped to live.”

He was outed himself by Scotsgay magazine in November 1999.

John currently  lives on a croft on the west side of Lewis with a small, elderly dog, two melodeons, a 4-oven Aga and too many chickens. He spends his time writing to local internet news sites defending our right not to have Sunday ferry sailings and generally winding up conversely opinionated “incomers”.

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Island Camping

22Jun09

Last year’s kit.

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A week today I’ll be headed Lewisward and hopefully the weather will be decent enough to get a fair few nights under canvas under my belt.

Despite having a 4×4 to drive about in I plan to get off the beaten track and far from the madding crowds and to this end I like to travel light. I usually draw up a list of equipment and try and pare things back as much as possible.

Here’s where things are at this year…

SLEEP & SHELTER

North Face Tadpole 23 Tent: I’ve had this tent for maybe five years now. It has survived floods and thunderstorms in Tuscany, galeforce Hebridean winds and a few music festivals too. It’s very light, packs down compact and is easy and quick to erect. Nice and waterproof with fully taped seams it can cope with most seasons. The only drawback is the height inside is sitting room only at the front and it’s a slight squeeze for two people. It has a nice large porch for stowing boots and bag, glow in the dark zip pulls, handy pockets inside and good ventilation so no condensation worries.

Mountain Equipment Dreamcatcher 300 Sleeping bag: Another older bit of kit. A good summer down bag that packs down super small and light. It has an elasticated lower portion making in really comfortable to sleep in, sit up cross legged in etc. It can be a little too light though and if it gets cold it’s good to add in a liner…

Lifeventure Microfleece liner: Simple fleece liner to add a bit of warmth. Light, compact and comfortable.

Thermarest Prolite Self-inflating Mattress: Super compact, superlight, fairly comfortable bit of kit. Good for sitting around on outside the tent too.

CARRY

North Face Badlands 60 Backpack: A rugged and comfortable internal frame rucksack. Good waterproofing, decent capacity and very stable to wear.

COOKING

Jetboil Personal Cooking System: Rather than lug a lot of food and wood around this year, I’m going to keep it simple. This bit of equipment packs away into the large aluminium mug (gas canister, burner, ignition etc) and is really light. It boils 500ml of water in 90 seconds and the mug just detaches to use straight away.

Coleman 100 70/30 Gas Canister: To be used with above. Small enough to fit in the Jetboil. Resealabel so can be screwed and unscrewed as needed.

Lightmyfire Spork: Multipurpose, featherlight, all you need really. In red.

Lightmyfire Grandpa’s Fire Fork: Handy wee gizmo. Just cut a branch and use to cook sauages, marshmallows, fish etc. Weighs eff all.

Spyderco Delica 4 Folding Knife: Exceptional knife for all the usual stuff.

Primus Power Lighter: Sets light to anything in wind, hail, rain, snow…

MSR Titan mug: Titanium mug, mega light, durable and particularly good with red wine

MSR Titan Titanium Kettle: Titanium, multi purpose pot / kettle / big mug / bowl. The mug above fits sweetly inside to for space saving storage.

MSR Litelifter: Easy to use grabber for the above kettle.

Snow Peak Titanium plate: Super light, durable plate / frying pan

Mountain House Dried Food: A first for this year alongside the Jetboil. Spag bog, chicken curry, risottos, beef stew, custard and apple, hot muesli etc.

Lightmyfire Spicebox: Handy little box with three compartments for slat, pepper and tabasco.

Sigg Classic 1L Water Bottle: Super light aluminum bottle. Doubles as hot water bottle on cold nights

HYGIENE

Sponge scourer: Cleaning equipment, wiping rainwater off tent etc. Stored inside mug, inside pot.

Lifeventure Trek Towel: Light, compact, quick drying, doesn’t smell.

Lifeventure Travel Soap: Lathers well in cold water and biodegradeable.

SAFETY

OS Landranger Maps 8, 13 & 14: Good all-purpose 1: 50 000 scale maps covering Lewis area. Stashed in waterproof map holder.

Silva Field 7 Compass: Very small, simple compass.

Lifesystems Trek First Aid Kit: Restocked with strong painkillers, blister pads, tiny LED torch, emergency whistle etc.

Petzl Zipka Headtorch: Brilliant wee LED lamp that can be worn on wrist, head, looped onto poles, tent loops etc. Three settings including flash.

CLOTHING

Nike ACG Zoom Tallac Boots: Very comfortable, light, waterproof, breathable boots with good support. Had them for years and never let me down.

Nike ACG Pocketknife Shoes: Straight up camp shoe. Folds up into ball for packing.

Nike Straprunner 7 Sandals: Bombproof, waterproof sandal. Had ‘em for years.

Bridgedale Light Hiker Socks: Light, warm, padded, quick drying and odour free!

FISHING

Grey’s Travel Missionary Spinning Rod: Caught more fish with this than the fly rod last year so worms it is.

Shimano Alivio Reel: Cheap but cheerful reel with folding handle.

C&F Design pocket box: Holds hooks n line etc.

MISC

Ricoh GRII Digital camera: My nice little camera.

Luger LG Pocket Binoculars: Small, strong, light, basic but functional bins.

Sony S22 Portable radio: Ancient but nice to have along.

Lifesystems Mosquito Repellent: Midgie hell sometimes and this kinda works. This and the hoodnet and a cigar. Which is tricky.

Tenugui: A multi purpose Japanese towel from Tokyo chum Nobu. Good for all sorts of stuff, hot pans, washing…

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Think that’s it all!

I’ll post up the pack weight once it’s packed and loaded.

UPDATE: Pack weighed in at 28lb exactly.

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dotjr

21Jun09

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dotjr is a folkish solo project from 20 year old Lewisman, James Reeves.

James began writing songs in 2006 and in 2007 officially formed dotjr and began playing gigs in his hometown of Stornoway.

A very talented young man, someone needs to get him signed toot sweet.

dotjr’s music can be found on his myspace.

Prev

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Home again.

16Jun09

Over Mealista, Isle of Lewis.

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Am very excited about heading home again, this time for a whole week. I’ll be travelling solo, J gets a break from me and I get to indulge a good bit of hillwalking, camping and fishing on my lonesome.

Plan is generally to drive a wee 4×4 over on the Ullapool ferry on the 29th and take it from there, staying with the folks overnight in Tong and catching up with the other relatives before heading west.

The Uig area holds a special place in my heart, having spent many summers camping over in Reef (Riof) as a kid with my Auntie, Uncle and cousin. Here we had the run of a fabulous beach (Traigh na Beirghe), the hills behind to climb and explore and bountiful lochs all around to fish. I remember my Uncle N taking us over to Brenish and beyond, combing the small stone beaches and walking out over the now grassy lazy beds of abandoned crofts where the road finally runs out past Mealista. I think it was there I felt most at home and have always return there when I’m on the island as a result. I’ve camped out there a fair few times over the years and always enjoyed the seclusion and atmosphere of the place. (For more info check out CEUig home of Asgerd, a veritable Sherpa Tenzing of the area).

The area is dominated by the mighty Mealisval and at the right moment it’s great to watch rain clouds break over it’s peak, especially when you aren’t in the way. I’ve also had a strange feeling of people and place despite being utterly alone on some nights, but maybe that was the red wine…either way I’ll head into the hills and find my spot dependent on the weather and midgie factor. I’ve always wanted to push on along the coast to Husinis on Harris and if the weather is good who knows?

After that I’ll head back and north (hopefully stopping off at Marco’s distillery at Abhainn Dearg for a dram) to Reef to a spot at the far end of the long, crescent beach there with a view of the sea and some peace and quiet far from the caravan site. Saying that if the weather is totally lousy I’ll hopefully have the keys to a caravan myself to retreat too like last year. A cop out admittedly but a welcome one!

From Reef it will be North to Ness and Eoropie to see friends and a walk from Skigersta to Cuisiadar where I’ve a genetic tie or two before heading south via Tong again to Scalpay (more gene tourism) and then to Husinish and hopefully a reasonably quiet Traigh Mheilein out towards Scarp.

Then home via Harris, Skye and Loch Lomond.

Word on the croft is that the islands are chockfull of tourists so have visions of turning up at my favourite spots only to find some Germans with their beach towels out.

C’est La Vie!

I’ll just need to find some more remote and more beautiful places and let them enjoy what they have found…

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Mealisval (By the Dunringles)

Away over in the Uig hills, there lies a great bump

It’s name is Mealisval and it’s a rotten dump

One side it is rocky and one side it is steep

One side is impossible unless you are a sheep

And it is so high, I just cant get on top of it

And it’s so high, I wish I were a pig , a pig with wings

Mealisval, it’s really high, it’s a pain in the ass way up in the sky

Mealisval, it’s top is higher than it’s bottom

I don’t like sheep, I think they’re really rotten

Chorus

Oh my poor Granny, you know she lived in a house

And once she climbed a tree because she saw a mouse

Mealisval, It’s top is higher than its bottom

I don’t like sheep you know I think they’re really rotten

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